Buying guide · updated 2026-09-20

Golf shoes: how to choose the right pair

Short answer: Buy golf shoes in your normal athletic shoe size, allowing about a thumb's width in front of the longest toe. Choose soft spikes for wet or sloped courses, spikeless for comfort and wearing off the course. Pick a waterproof model if you play in autumn or winter. If you are between sizes, size up for walking comfort.

What size golf shoes should I buy?

Start from the size you wear in running or tennis shoes, not from your dress shoe size. Golf shoes are built on athletic lasts, so they usually run true to athletic size. Measure your foot at the end of the day, standing, with the sock you actually play in, then compare the length against the conversion table below.

A correctly fitted golf shoe leaves roughly 8–10 mm (about a thumb's width) between your longest toe and the front of the shoe, and holds your heel without slipping when you lift it. If you are between two sizes, take the larger one: your feet swell during a four-hour round, and a tight shoe causes blisters on the back nine rather than better stability.

Women's golf shoes are usually labelled one and a half sizes above the equivalent men's size: a US men's 7 is about a US women's 8.5. Leather uppers relax by roughly half a size after a few rounds; synthetic uppers barely change.

Spiked or spikeless golf shoes?

Soft-spiked shoes give the most grip on wet grass, sidehill lies and steep tee boxes. Spikeless shoes are lighter, more comfortable to walk in and can be worn to and from the course, but they offer less traction in soft conditions. Most golfers who play weekly and walk their rounds end up with one of each; if you only buy one pair and play year-round in a wet climate, choose soft spikes.

Metal spikes are banned at almost every course because they damage greens. "Spiked" in a modern product listing means soft plastic or rubber spikes.

What does waterproof actually mean?

Waterproof means a membrane or sealed construction keeps water out; water resistant means the upper only shrugs off light rain and will soak through in wet rough. If you play in autumn or winter, or on courses that water their fairways, buy waterproof and check that the listing states a waterproof warranty — one year is the industry norm. Clean mud off the membrane area with lukewarm water only, since detergent and heat break down the coating.

Width, weight and walking comfort

Golf is a walking sport, so weight and width matter more than most buyers expect. For a men's US 9, anything under about 350 g per shoe counts as light; above 450 g you will feel it on the back nine. If you have a wide forefoot or a high instep, look for a wide fit or a knit/synthetic upper, which gives more than leather.

Insoles are the cheapest upgrade available: replacing the stock insole with a supportive one costs far less than a new pair of shoes and fixes most arch discomfort.

How much should you spend?

Entry-level shoes (roughly $50–80) are usually synthetic, spikeless and fine for casual rounds in dry weather. Mid-range ($80–140) adds waterproof membranes, better cushioning and replaceable spikes. Above $140 you are paying for lighter materials, premium leather and brand names rather than a step change in grip or waterproofing.

A pair used weekly lasts roughly 40–60 rounds before the cushioning flattens, even when the upper still looks new. Rotating two pairs roughly doubles the calendar life of both, because the foam recovers between rounds.

Caring for golf shoes

• Knock dried mud off after every round; mud left on a membrane clogs it.
• Pull the insoles out and let shoes air-dry at room temperature — never on a radiator or in a car boot.
• Stuff with newspaper if they are soaked; replace the paper when it is wet.
• Check soft spikes every few rounds and replace them when the nubs are worn flat.
• Use a shoe tree or loosely tied laces in storage so the upper keeps its shape.

Frequently asked questions

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